Where the percentages come from

The ceiling used here is the same one our buying guides use: every car cost together stays inside 15 to 20 percent of take-home pay, with 15 as the conservative end. Take-home rather than gross, because gross never reaches your account.

The 48-month default term comes from the classic 20/4/10 rule: 20 percent down, four years maximum, and all transport costs under 10 percent of gross pay. The rule has not stopped working; it has become harder to meet, which is a signal about car prices rather than permission to ignore it. The full reasoning behind both is in how much car can I afford.

Read the result as a ceiling, not a target

The headline figure is the vehicle price your budget supports, and it is a maximum. Buying at it leaves no room for the repair that arrives in year three.

What each output means

All-in monthly car budget
Everything the car may cost you each month
Left for the payment
What remains once insurance, fuel and upkeep are paid
Loan that payment supports
The balance that payment amortizes over your term
Vehicle price you can carry
That loan plus your cash up front, before tax and fees

The price shown sits before sales tax and fees, because those are financed on top. On a 6 percent tax rate plus $800 in fees, the sticker you should actually shop is roughly 6 to 8 percent below the number here.

What changes the answer most

Running costs move the result more than buyers expect. Every $50 a month of insurance is around $2,000 of car at a typical rate and term, so a cheap-to-insure model raises the car you can afford without raising your income.

The term is the second lever, and it is the dishonest one.

Stretching from 48 to 72 months raises the price this tool reports, but it leaves you paying more interest and staying underwater longer.

If the car only fits at 72 months, it does not fit.

Turn the ceiling into a shortlist

Once you have a price ceiling, shop against it rather than against a monthly payment. Our model profiles carry a price range and an ownership-cost section for every car, so you can check both halves of the budget before a test drive.

When you have a specific car and a quoted rate, run the exact deal through the car payment calculator to see the payment, the amount financed, and the interest total for that car rather than for a budget in the abstract.

Frequently Asked Questions

What percentage of income should a car payment be?
Keep every car cost together, payment plus insurance plus fuel plus maintenance, inside 15 to 20 percent of take-home pay. The payment alone is whatever is left after the running costs are covered, which is usually well under 10 percent.
Should I calculate affordability on gross or take-home pay?
Take-home. Gross income never reaches your account after tax, retirement contributions, and health premiums, so budgeting against it is how buyers end up with a payment that looks fine on paper and squeezes them every month.
Is the price this calculator gives me the sticker price I should shop?
Not quite. It is the price before sales tax and fees, which get financed on top. Shop a sticker roughly 6 to 8 percent below the figure, depending on your state tax rate and local dealer fees.
Why does the default term stop at 48 months?
Because the 20/4/10 rule caps a car loan at four years. Longer terms make any car look affordable while raising the total interest and keeping you underwater for longer. You can change the term, but read the price it returns as a stretch, not a budget.
Does existing debt change how much car I can afford?
Considerably. Lenders look at all your debt payments as a share of gross income and usually want that under about 40 to 43 percent. Clearing a card or finishing another loan often raises the car you qualify for more than a raise would.

Where to go next

Sources